Chef Jason French’s brunch menu changes often, but there will always be, with a few twists and turns, signature dishes that should win over even the most adventurous eaters. Take French’s apple muffin, which looks less like a muffin than it does a cookie cut in half and tastes, thanks to Ned Ludd’s wood-fired griddling, like what you’d eat as a mid-morning snack while working the fields on a 1940s Midwestern farm. In other words, wholesome and out of this world—in time and place as well as taste. On the savory scale, there will always something brothy, like braised lamb on rice topped with an egg yolk and drippings of tangy house harissa. But, the prettiest feather in the kitchen crew’s hat just may be the French toast. Again, thanks to a spell in that wood-fired oven, this thick, single slice of fluffy, chewy brioche is crispy and crunchy around the edges. It comes with a seasonal blend of berry-maple syrup and a mysteriously deep and complex Meyer lemon marmalade that’s equal parts tart, bitter and sweet. Try yours with either, or try it without. (It’s just as good!) Either way, French’s French toast transcends most, and its gravitational pull will draw you back before the next new moon. Brunch is a one day deal here, lasting from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. every Sunday.
Ned Ludd, 3925 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 503.288.6900
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3925 NE MLK Jr Boulevard
Portland OR 97212