Ever since community-supported agriculture (CSA) was introduced in the United States in the 1980s, it has provided an integral alternative method of food distribution that connects growers directly to consumers. CSA subscribers may not think too much about the machinations of running and managing a CSA: A seasonal payment is made, a weekly share is collected, and that's about it. What might surprise subscribers and other interested parties is that there is a lot of complex decision-making and considerations that go into that weekly box of produce. Exploring the different aspects of CSA operations, there may be some details that subscribers might never consider—or were hesitant to ask.
Subscribing to a CSA allows an individual or family to take a step closer to fulfilling the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s motto of “Know Your Farmer, Know Your Food.” The direct-marketing aspect of CSAs allow a lot of influence on behalf of the subscribers, who can use their economic wherewithal to reward farmers that grow particular crops or use particular methods. Successful CSAs are an example of the oft-discussed magic of the market that rarely exists otherwise.
At the same time—to perhaps extend this economic analogy a little further—CSAs can be described as investments in future farmers. As with any investment, there is a risk. By paying for a season’s worth of shares at the beginning of the season, subscribers are at the mercy of the volatility of growing conditions and the impact on local farms. Perhaps the only thing worse than being a farmer in an age of unpredictable weather is being a CSA subscriber relying on regular shares from these farmers. Blight, pests, an early frost, or unseasonable summers can wipe out an entire crop, causing subscribers to lose out on their initial payment. Still, prudent management and decision-making can help ensure that this alternative method of food distribution can continue to benefit both growers and subscribers.
CSA Growers Must Be Flexible to Meet Subscribers’ Needs![]()
For a city that holds a firm commitment to local, sustainable food—even resulting in the Portlandia-created, tongue-in-cheek term “Portland organic”—it should not be a surprise that CSAs have been embraced by the city’s locavores. (There are even local CSAs that offer Portlanders opportunities to see their subscriptions benefit social causes.) While the range of options allows subscribers to feel good while eating good, CSAs can also establish excellent relationships with subscribers if they are flexible in the options available to their subscribers.
Flexibility is perhaps needed most by first-time CSAs operated by beginning farmers. Weston Miller, an educator from the Oregon State University Extension Service, describes how a CSA is formed: “The first couple of years on a new site, a new grower has the obligation to provide people food. People have high expectations as there are a number of CSAs with high levels of service.” However, there is a risk that new growers could potentially overextend themselves to their subscribers because they might not be sure how much food they are able to grow on their new land.
“This is why I’ve always encouraged new farmers to start with farmers’ markets or build relationships with restaurants,” Miller counsels. “Or they can be flexible and offer weekly shares of the CSA for sale, opposed to an initial full payment up front.”
Miller’s suggested steps for a nascent CSA perfectly describe Ann Forsthoefel’s. The former executive director of the Portland Farmers Market, Forsthoefel returned from a year’s sabbatical in Montana and began growing food on her lot in North Portland’s Overlook neighborhood.
“I’ve always grown food,” Forsthoefel says. “It’s like an addiction.”
But in her first year as a CSA operator, Forsthoefel isn’t just starting small—she’s starting microscopic. Originally planning to have a table at the new farmers’ market in Kenton, Forsthoefel realized she wasn’t growing enough to justify selling at the market each week.
“That’s when a friend said that she’d buy my food,” Forsthoefel says. “Now I provide food for three families, only one of which pays me.” Forsthoefel barters with the other families, trading the food she grows for services that she needs—another example of flexibility that a beginning CSA grower might consider.
Subscribers Must Understand Lifestyle Impact of CSAs
It might seem hyperbolic to say that CSAs can really change your life, but they really can. This notion is equal parts promise and warning.
Subscribers certainly seek out CSAs to ensure an increased amount of healthy, local food in their diets. Often, they simply might be unprepared for the sheer amount of food they receive on a weekly basis, which could sadly result in a portion of each week’s share ending up in the compost bin.
“It is a conscious decision to subscribe to a CSA,” Forsthoefel says. “There really is an alteration of one’s lifestyle.”
The idea of a direct link to a farmer’s most choice offerings is desirable to Portland’s ethically minded foodies. But the regularly scheduled pick ups at the farm—if there are no nearby drop-off locations or delivery options available—need to be arranged, and then once the box of food is brought home, there needs to be time available for prepping and cooking.
“I’m a Sunday cook,” Forsthoefel says, “meaning I prepare all my meals for the week on Sundays and freeze them. But most people aren’t able to do that. A lot of them join CSAs for all the right reasons, and they are just not prepared for the lifestyle investment that is involved.”
Miller agrees and suggests that due consideration should be given before making a commitment to a CSA.
“Before joining a CSA, do your research,” Miller advises. “And determine whether you and your family can commit to eat everything in your share.”
Of course, subscribers can preserve portions of their share, but not many people have the time available for canning or pickling, so subscribers should consider an option that best fits their needs and lifestyle.
“I am impressed by what Slow Hand Farms is doing, offering small-share CSAs that cater to urban, active young people who may eat at home only twice a week,” Miller says. “This might be more realistic, providing enough food to fit that particular lifestyle.”
Growers Must Identify a Market Niche to Ensure Success
Slow Hand Farms is operated by Josh Volk, who has been involved with Portland’s organic farming scene for a number of years and also oversees PACSAC (Portland Area CSA Coalition). Billing itself the “very small CSA,” Slow Hand operates on one-tenth of an acre on Sauvie Island. The smaller shares Slow Hand provides may be a result of the farm’s size limitations, but it also fills an available market niche that allows the CSA to thrive.
Filling an open market niche is high on Miller’s suggestions for beginning CSA growers.
“Portland’s foodie scene is past saturation when it comes to CSAs,” Miller says.
In other words, if a new CSA plans to offer arugula or tomatoes, it is going to be very difficult for them to establish a toehold amongst the more established CSAs.
“There are so many other untapped audiences that could benefit from an alternative model of food distribution,” Miller says.
Examples of often overlooked audiences for potential CSAs include culturally appropriate foods for ethnic groups and underserved communities.
“Of course, then there is less money available,” Miller says, “unless you are able to follow Zenger Farm’s model and get a waiver to accept SNAP payments for your CSA.”
CSAs Must Meet the Needs of Growers and Subscribers
Ultimately, it’s easy for subscribers to find a share in a local CSA that provides the food they want in the manner they want—either pickup or delivery. It’s not as easy for a beginning farmer to get a new CSA up and running in a few years.
While it is rare, CSAs have been known to fold mid-season resulting in subscribers losing their initial payment.
“I have only seen two CSAs fold in the past 10 years,” Volk says. “Typically, most CSAs that close up shop finish out the season.”
But Volk, Miller and Forsthoefel all agree that subscribers should take the due diligence necessary, performing research to find the CSA that best fits their needs. And in doing so, the farmer of each CSA will take the steps to ensure that the subscribers’ needs are met.
Keep promoting the CSAs!
I love ours. You are so right, you need to change the way you think about preparing meals when you start using a CSA. Last year, I don't know that we used ours to the best of our ability. This year, we keep track of everything we make. We even keep a blog to keep us accountable and creative with our meals.
I encourage everyone to try it, if you are able!