Flux: Fashion on Lend: Reflections on Six Weeks of Swaps

Flux: Fashion on Lend is Laura Allcorn’s experiment in consumerism.

"Where Ownership Is Outdated, But Fashion Never Dies."

If you were anywhere near downtown over the past six weeks or so—getting on/off the Westbound Max, walking back to work from the SW Alder food cart pod, perusing the shelves at the Central Library—chances are you saw this phrase spelled out in large, coral-colored letters emblazoned on the wall of the Galleria building on the corner of SW 10th & Morrison during your excursion. Positioned in such a high-traffic spot, this declaration drew many gawkers, some of whom wondered audibly, “What the heck is going on in there?” An art installation? Another one of those ‘pop-up’ shops?

Good guesses, dear passersby, but neither speculation is correct. What in fact was happening inside the tiny space was Laura Allcorn’s experiment in consumerism called Flux: Fashion on Lend. Allcorn, a recent graduate of Pacific Northwest College of Art and Oregon College of Art & Craft’s collaborative Applied Craft & Design MFA program, began this project with the goal to “fulfill a woman's desires for fashion and at the same time extend the life-cycle of the garments that are produced.” I had the pleasure of participating in the first public incarnation of Flux after learning about the trial via the magical Twitterverse. The rules of the 6-week test run were simple: 10 women, roughly sizes 2-6, could check out one item at a time that could be kept for up to seven days. There was no limit on the number of swaps per participant, and one particularly enjoyable part was that items did not need to be laundered upon return (coin-operated launderers, rejoice!).

I confess that this opportunity had me in full-on “giddy schoolgirl” mode. The concept of using the traditional library model of lending and sharing to swap clothing is not entirely new; high-end services for borrowing special event wear exist online, and the idea has even been mentioned in pop culture (Louise from Sex & the City the movie, anyone?!). Allcorn’s vision, however, would provide a physical space for sharing clothing with an emphasis on practicality—items that can be incorporated into the everyday routine and not just for special occasions. Instead of purchasing an item that might be worn once or twice and then relegated to the dark side of the closet, a service like Flux would allow women to peruse and borrow from a carefully curated and adaptable wardrobe. Just think: whenever the inevitable craving for some retail therapy hits, the option to simply check out a garment, use it, and return it would exist as an alternative. It’s like suddenly having access to the closet of your super-stylish friend who just happens to always be willing to share. Could this idea become a reality in Portland? Allcorn and her swap-happy lab rats, myself included, were about to try Flux on for size.

For me, the trial started at the most opportune time. I recently began a new job, one that demands a slightly more “biz cas” dress code than what I was used to. I saw Flux as an extension of my own closet, trying with each lend to envision the ways I could work the garment into my existing wardrobe to create a look suitable for the office. Allcorn filled the rack of potential check-outs with gently used garments, each with a custom “Flux” label where a brand or store name would normally be placed (early signs of her own branding?). The selections were predominately tops, which, lucky for me, lent themselves to be perfectly tucked into the high-waisted black pencil skirt I bought shortly after accepting the job. Work-wear was my focus during the six weeks, while I’m sure others sought the black and white patterned skirt for date night or the bright blue and black striped jacket to cap off an otherwise basic day-off ensemble.

Even more rewarding than temporarily gaining a new item of clothing every few days was the high level of “audience participation” involved in the trial. Allcorn ensured that we were active voices in her experiment by following up each return with a series of five questions that asked specifics such as how the garment was worn and if you would consider checking it out again. We were also encouraged to fill out small cards detailing our experiences with the item—what accessories we added &/or a particular quirk about the fit—information that would be affixed to the hanger for the next user to read. This was no “pick up item from hold shelf, use self-check-out, leave w/o speaking to anyone” passive borrowing experience, but rather a unique opportunity to participate in the infant stages of a new business. Every step of the Flux process was purposeful and documented; Allcorn is serious about exploring the ways her project could come to fruition, and she works diligently to gather as much feedback from the participants as possible.

Now that the first trial has ended, Allcorn plans to asses the data collected over the six weeks and formulate a plan for what’s next. This debrief will including tackling long-standing uncertainties such as future locations and whether Flux could be a viable business model. Many of the questions asked during participants’ exit interviews focused on whether or not we would pay to use this service. And if so, what method would work best for the women of Portland: a membership-type subscription that would allow “x” number of check-outs per month, or a pay-per-item fee, or both? Could this idea expand to include accessories such as jewelry, scarves, and handbags (pretty please?)? Allcorn encourages those interested in the concept of “fashion on lend” to stay tuned to her website for upcoming news.

I believe that this idea has the potential to thrive in our fair city. Creating a garment lending service locally, and with predominantly thrifted items as Laura did, is key to standing out among the luxury services already available. Borrowing and sharing, as opposed to consuming, is embraced here (Zip cars, The North Portland Tool Library, surely there are other examples...) and a clothing library would hopefully be welcomed with the same enthusiasm.

Do you think Flux could flourish in Portland as an established business? Why or why not? What do you see as potential concerns for Flux moving forward? Sound off in the comments.

Check out the Flux Lookbook Allcorn assembled of outfits using garments available during the trial.

Flux Facebook page