Portland may be known for its gourmand citizens and food-friendly culture, but according to recent studies, many residents lack proper access to full-service grocery stores. An initiative launched by the city and the Portland Development Commission (PDC) aims to fix that by attracting grocers to neighborhoods that are considered “underserved” or “food deserts.” To the chagrin of some local business advocates, however, some of the potential new stores are of the dreaded big-box variety.
Drawing from a map created by the Portland Bureau of Planning and Sustainability (BPS), the PDC initiative seeks to serve citizens who live more than a half-mile from the nearest full-service grocery store. This effort to help people living in these “food deserts,” according to PDC Deputy Director Kimberly Branam, was born out the Portland Plan, the city’s vast 25-year blueprint for the future. “The genesis of this project is the Portland plan and the work that they’ve been doing on the concept of the 20-minute neighborhood,” she says. “There are a number of indicators that go into that process of looking at what each neighborhood has access to, from transit to local serving businesses and grocery stores.”
The May 1 deadline for interested grocers to submit responses to PDC's Request for Information (RFI) elicited responses from businesses ranging from small neighborhood co-ops to international behemoths. The elephant on the list is Walmart, which has relatively little market share in Portland compared to stores such as New Seasons and Trader Joe’s. Nevertheless, Walmart’s response to the RFI includes plans for over a dozen new stores in the Portland metro area. New Seasons and Trader Joe’s submitted responses along with Whole Foods, which has six locations in Portland.
While Walmart or another big-box store could certainly provide disadvantaged shoppers with lower prices, experts say, small, local grocers could have a more positive impact in the long run. Still, others believe Walmart's entry into the local market could have a positive effect as described in the Oregonian's May 15 editorial.

Tony Fuentes, small business advocate and owner of Milagros, a socially and environmentally conscious family clothing store in Northeast Portland, believes that smaller stores have advantages that are more important than slightly lower prices. “On the one hand you have a local grocer like New Seasons that pays people above minimum wage,” he says. “They get health benefits, they actually get a career track… All of that has a larger impact on the local economy than, say, a Walmart’s going to have even with the jobs that they produce and perhaps some of the savings.”
Beyond creating good, sustainable jobs, Fuentes says, local grocers fuel the local economy by selling locally sourced goods. “I’d like to see a grocer that is either locally headquartered or headquartered in Oregon,” he says, “so that you know that most of that money is staying local as well as the commitment to local produce and local products.”
To ensure that new grocery stores are a good fit for the neighborhoods that they will inhabit, the PDC says it is reaching out to residents in the underserved areas. “The idea of having neighborhood representatives as part of the evaluation… is to really include the neighbors in this process and determine what exactly it is that they want,” says PDC Public Affairs Manager Shawn Uhlman. “The neighbors that we’re hearing from so far are very engaged and want to be involved with this process.”
Because the process is in its infancy, it is hard to tell what sort of businesses may have a leg up in the process. Jason Blake-Beach, general manager of the Alberta Co-op, which is a part of one of the responses submitted to PDC, feels that co-ops and other local, smaller businesses can be valuable additions to underserved areas. “I think there’s a demand for smaller, more neighborhood-type grocers,” he says. “I don’t know that there is a big call for giant big box locations.”

Though Blake-Beach admits that his views are shaped by his line of work, he maintains that co-ops are a good fit because of their unique nature. “The [co-op] model is essentially a model of ownership,” he says. Co-ops, he says, are “responsible and accountable to the individuals in the community and owned by the community as opposed to purely making profit-motivated decisions.”
Fuentes echoes Blake-Beach’s sentiment and stresses the confidence he has in the power of sustainable local business. “In terms of pure economic development terms,” Fuentes says, “the locally owned grocer is going to have a greater impact with regards to the local economy than a... grocer that’s located out of state.” He adds that the apparent dearth of grocery stores in poorer neighborhoods may have more to do with a systemic issue. Fuentes cites the lack of sidewalk and proper bikeways in underserved areas. “That points to the problem that we still have a very pronounced issue with poverty in our city,” he says. “Especially when you get east of 42nd avenue.”
In the coming months, it will become clearer what the city has in mind in terms of new grocery stores. For now, the eternal conflict between local businesses and the big-box stores will continue unabated, with both making compelling cases for inclusion in the Portland metro area. “We’re really excited,” says Branam. “It’s exciting to see that there are grocers who are interested in going into these areas that have previously not had easy access to groceries.”
What do you think about this initiative, neighbors? Are big-box or local retailers the best solution to nourish Portland's underserved neighborhoods—and why? Sound off in the comment section below.






I looked at the PDC map and noted it's wrong for at least my neighborhood. It shows yellow ("1/2 mile to 3/4 mile") to any grocery stores west of 82nd Ave between Stark and I-84.
Unless they know something I don't, there's a Safeway right at the corner of 82nd and Burnside that's *within* the yellow area they indicate. Plus there's Fred Meyer at NE 67th and Glisan. Combined, those provide coverage into all but a tiny sliver right along I-84 with shopping options.
So I hope Walmart isn't looking at this going "see? No grocery stores!" and using it to justify moving in. Because I think the map is wrong in at least that area (and therefore possibly others as well)
Hi Brian,
That map judges distances based on the "centroid" of the census tract. So, the center point of your tract is over 1/2 mile to the Safeway.
I don't think that map is the most accurate map. There's a heat map here:
http://www.portlandmercury.com/images/blogimages/2011/03/03/1299183384-food-maps.pdf
This way of measuring provides a lot better idea of where there is access and where there is not.
I live a few blocks from the Safeway at SE 82nd & E Burnside but rarely shop there. It's a store the neighborhood has been told on a number of occasions would be upgraded but just continues to languish. (It's in such disrepair that customers only have one door left to enter and exit, the other is broken and permanently closed.) There is a bare minimum of fruits and vegetables available and the meat case is next to the line for returning cans and bottles. It's just not an option for our family, so we drive to QFC or Fred Meyer.
Neighbors in Lents and Montavilla are working hard to establish neighborhood co-ops. I would love to see PDC and the city help these (and other) grassroots efforts flourish.
Locally owned businesses keep an average of three times as much money circulating locally than non-local chains. So while a mega-retailer may seem like a good short term solution, it will inevidibley further weaked the economy in these areas. And frankly, organic, local food is cheap when you have a good relationship with a farmer. Small, local grocers and lots of farm love. That's what I think.
Hi Katrina,
"Small, local grocers and lots of farm love. That's what I think." << I agree!
Hey would you happen to have a source or link re: the stat about 3x as much money circulating? Would like to learn more...
Thanks!
Jaculynn
To Brian,
There is a notable difference between the desert map created by the City of Portland and the one created by the USDA:
http://www.oregonlive.com/business/index.ssf/2011/05/wal-mart_and_target_load_up_on.html
versus
http://wweek.com/portland/print-blog-27063-print.html
Although this may mean we are holding ourselves to a higher standard, it may also mean that we’re trying to address a problem that isn’t that pronounced in some cases.
For instance, I live almost exactly a mile from a New Seasons, a Safeway, and Alberta Coop (which I am a member of). I walk or bike to all three of these grocers.
Like yourself, I don't feel that I am in a desert but the PDC criteria implies that I am under served.
Jaculyn,
A few studies are cited in this piece in Sustainable Industries:
http://bit.ly/lAkFwX
BALLE cites a number of studies here as well:
http://www.livingeconomies.org/netview/the-need-for-local-first-campaigns
Thanks!
Thanks for the alternate map. I too was puzzled. I live in NE and it seems like the Safeway near 60th and Fremont and the Albertson's on 60th and Cully were not included, nor was the very organic, very local Cully Farmer's Market at 55th and Killingsworth. I just get suspicious about projects like this being motivated by profit instead of really serving the neighborhoods.
It was discouraging to see political and public resources used recently in hopes of recruiting additional Costco and Target stores to Portland:
http://www.oregonlive.com/portland/index.ssf/2011/01/portland_mayor_sam_adams_consi.html
That has left me concerned as well that an outcome of the grocery initiative may be public subsidizing of out of state retailers in neighborhood business districts.
Hi Lynnette! The Montavilla Food Co-op is in development and we need support so we don't have to rely on Walmart, Safeway or Kroger to supply or community with wages & food. Please come to our fundraiser June 4th for an ALL YOU CAN EAT PANCAKE BREAKFAST & RUMMAGE SALE. All proceeds go to the MFC for the future store front (we have a place in mind already).
Hi, Marisa.
We attended (and enjoyed) the pancake breakfast. The turnout and support for the co-op were impressive. Please keep us in the loop on your progress.
Lynnette
Reason number #1001 why I don't want to see public initiatives paving the way for corporate interests:
http://www.newrules.org/retail/news/south-africa-walmart-refuses-buy-local-threatens-wto-action-and-wins
Especially the interests of WalMart.
Speaking of Walmart...
Here they come to a neighborhood near you:
http://blog.oregonlive.com/windowshop/2011/06/wal-marts_picking_up_local_pro.html
None of the (new) locations are in Portland...yet. Good times!
Still more grist for this mill from Grist on how the definition of "food desert" used by the USDA (and by extension the PDC) may exclude local, indie grocers in favor of national chains:
http://www.grist.org/food/2011-07-21-walmart-michelle-obama-and-the-future-of-food#more