Portland Perfumers Hitting the Right Notes

Portland perfumers hitting the right notes. Photo: ©Heather Zinger

Spring has sprung, or so we’re told, and suddenly, we’re in the mood for all things frilly and floral. No, we’re not talking wardrobe this time; it’s fragrance we’re after. Until the roses start blooming in our own backyard, we can’t resist the siren call of a new signature scent, especially one that makes us dream of Portland’s legendary summer days. Lucky for us, Portland plays host to a bevy of supremely talented perfumers, all primed to make you eager to sniff your way through our beloved city. And so, we present a list of our favorite scents in the city. Whatever your style, we’re sure you’ll find something new to love.

For the Classicist

If you’re forever lingering at the perfume counter of your favorite department store, already think you have your signature scent nailed down, and would know Chanel No. 5 blindfolded, you must check out the ingenious scents from 40notes Perfume.

The collection of seven unforgettable fragrances was created by Miriam Vareldzis, a Portland transplant who honed her craft working for Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, and a host of other famous perfumers. Her expertise shows in every aspect of her line, from the sophistication of her blends and rarity of her ingredients to the French glass bottles she had custom designed by the same house that makes the bottles for Chanel perfumes. The entire experience of 40notes Perfume feels like a decadent indulgence, and we love it.

The real beauty of the line, for us, is that the fragrances manage to be simultaneously sophisticated and classic, without over-the-top complexity. It’s impossible for us to pick a favorite from this line (we can’t stop sniffing our samples), but Spring Vetiver is near the top of our list. Packed with top notes of grapefruit and cassis, this bright, crisp scent mellows to a clean, mellow vetiver with just a lingering hint of citrus.

If you feel like indulging your inner siren, try Exotic Ylang Ylang, a heady, sultry blend of tuberose, indole and gardenia that’s as sexy as scent gets. But the fragrance that most lingered in this writer’s mind was Cashmere Musk, a scent so impossible to place we aren’t even sure how to describe it. Miriam simply told us to imagine ourselves lying in bed, swathed in nothing but warm, cozy cashmere. Yes, that’s it.

Prices range from $35 for a sample kit to $135 for the full splurge. Find 40notes Perfume at Flurry (720 SW Yamhill), or online at www.40notes.com.

For the Natural Girl

If you’re most at home with the scent of sage incense wafting through the air and have welcomed the deep warmth of patchouli into your life, you’ll want to make a beeline for Flora and check out their house line of fragrances. Custom crafted by shop owner Jewlie Randall, each scent is made entirely from natural ingredients, though her exact recipes are a closely-guarded secret.

If you’re a floral girl at heart, head straight for Cleopatra, a heady floral packed with rose and jasmine. For the consummate vintage shopping devotee, you’ll want to try Amber Alchemy, which smells exactly like the inside of a vintage jewelry box. If you’re after something a bit less traditional, check out Middle Earth, aptly named for its scent of damp, dusky soil.

Prices start at $25; Flora (917 SW Washington)

For the Girl Who Hates Perfume

Get thee straight to Frances May, where they stock a large selection of OLO Fragrances. Created by Heather Sielaff, the line is the least perfume-like of anything we’ve come across. Whether you’re partial to a stiff shot of whiskey, the warm scent of bacon frying, or the unmistakable aroma of a backyard smoker, this is a collection for the nontraditional scent seeker. We were particularly fond of Forêt, a sharp, pine-infused scent that reminded us of that sweet, pungent aroma of a post-rainstorm hike in Forest Park. If you’re after a bit more edge, check out Erastus or Victory Wolf—both pack a seriously smoky punch, but Erastus blends it with sharp, pungent whiskey, whereas Victory Wolf has just a hint of bacon-y goodness that’s sure to get you noticed (and certainly enthrall the man in your life).

$40 each, Find OLO Fragrance at Frances May (1013 SW Washington), Nationale (811 E Burnside) or online at www.olofragrance.com.

For the Beginner

If you’re new to the world of scent and want to start slow, we loved the simplicity of the scents from Arcana, a local line we tracked down at Camellia Pure Beauty. We’re particularly fond of Absinthe, a straightforward blend of lemon and fennel that did, in fact, remind us of its namesake, a lovely old-fashioned spirit. But also check out Herne, a cozy cinnamon scent; Huntress, a dead-ringer for Wrigley’s Spearmint Gum; or Caffeinated Death, which has that eye-opening aroma of the perfect café mocha at Coffeehouse Northwest. But the scent that stuck with us for hours after leaving was Nervine, which we can only describe as a blend between flat ginger ale and root beer—not at all what we were expecting, but definitely unforgettable.

$15 each, Find Arcana at Camellia Pure Beauty (4759 NE Fremont)