Thanks to Portland’s epicurious nature, we hungrily take to the streets and gobble up whatever new food trend comes our way. When the bold and bright flavors of the Mediterranean started popping up all over town we were there en mass, olive oil in hand and napkin tucked neatly into our lapels. And when an influx of Spanish tapas added a little spice and economy to our dining experience, we ordered up a round of cervezas, cued up the mariachi band and dug right in.
Recently, though, a new trend has made its way across the ocean and been dropped squarely into our eagerly-awaiting baby bird mouths. They call it Alpine cuisine, and the breadth of countries and cooking styles it encompasses are as vast as the 80,000-square-mile mountain range itself.
But there are some commonalities. From the foothills of Germany to the snowy slopes of Switzerland and extending into the mountainous regions of Austria, Slovenia and well beyond, a common thread emerges of savory, rich flavors and hearty comfort food sourced from the mountains, forests, fresh water lakes and rivers of the region. It’s a little bit different, but thanks to a climate similar to ours, it also feels a little bit like home.
Recently we paid a visit to four new Central European dining destinations, all opened within the last six months, to get to the bottom of this trend the only way we know how—one bite at a time.
King of the Mountain
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The gourmet take on European mountain fare can be found at the much buzzed about Grüner, where Chef Christopher Israel has claimed the entire Alpine region as his culinary playground, taking his cues from the cuisines of Germany, Austria, and even further east into Hungary and Romania.
“I was looking for something unique,” explains the former chef of popular P-Town dining destinations Zefiro, Saucebox and 23Hoyt. “It just seemed like something that hadn’t really been explored too much. It was kind of obvious to me—the food matches our climate.”
It was Israel, in fact, who introduced the term Alpine as a category of food to Portland’s collective consciousness, though he admits the designation is up for debate.
“I think people question whether there really is such a thing as Alpine food,” muses Israel. “I don’t know if there really is or not… For me, Alpine cuisine is based on European countries that meet the Alps. It’s that simple. And even though they’re all different countries and they speak different languages, they have this commonality food-wise.”
“It’s not like we’re trying to recreate the Alps,” he continues. “It’s just the inspiration, the jumping off point.”
It only takes a few bites to realize that Israel’s inspiration is well-placed. The menu at Grüner features creamy and rich dishes like zucchini-ricotta dumplings, savory housemade sausages with intensely flavorful sauerkraut, earthy and hearty fried smashed potatoes and all manner of unique entrees and bar snacks. And while Israel’s culinary creations are as thoughtfully prepared and presented as any in town, only three entrees top the $20 mark. Take all this into account and it becomes pretty clear why Grüner has become a favorite destination for both casual diners and hardcore foodies alike.
Grüner
527 SW 12th Avenue
Portland, OR 97205
503.241.7163
www.grunerpdx.com
Swiss Miss
An unassuming little space on the corner of NE 14th and Alberta serves as the lab where Jennie Wyss and business partner Dani Thiel concoct their uniquely smoky and tangy Martin’s Swiss Dressing, which is hawked at New Seasons, Lambs and a variety of other grocery stores around town. But salad dressing is only the tip of the Matterhorn here.
The space is also home to Cafe Hibiscus, where Wyss pays proper tribute to her Swiss roots with a dash of influence from her Hawaiian upbringing to create intensely decadent dishes offset with fresh and vibrant flavors.
“Swiss food is definitely rich and flavorful,” explains Wyss, whose father trained as a chef in Switzerland from the age of 16 before making the move to Honolulu. “From an Alpine sense, it’s cold there, so the food has to be sort of rich; you keep yourself going with a lot of cheese, a lot of cream sauces.”
And while there’s no chance of a blizzard hitting our city anytime soon, mouthwatering appetizers like Croute Emmental (toasted bread topped with mushroom cream sauce, ham and Swiss cheese) and entrees like the savory and filling Emince De Veau Zurichoise (thinly sliced pork sautéed in mushroom cream sauce served with hash browns) could easily get you through another rainy June day in Portland.
Due to a lack of formal culinary training, Wyss refuses to call herself a chef, but we’re not buying it. The dishes at Cafe Hibiscus are full-flavored, satisfying and, at around $8-$10 each, surprisingly inexpensive. Wear that puffy white toque with pride, Chef Wyss, you’ve earned it!
Cafe Hibiscus
4950 NE 14th Avenue
Portland, OR 97211
503.477.9224
www.martinsswissdressing.com/cafe.html
Blitz-Keg
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German food is nothing new to Portland, but Spints is an experience all its own, offering up all the elements of a traditional German Alehouse along with tasty pub grab and a handful of more upscale entrees.
Nearly 40 different beers (including several German imports, of course) draw a healthy crowd of Bavarian brew lovers, who, if they prove themselves worthy, can earn a stein locker all their own behind the bar.
But the real star of the show here is the excellent selection of cured meats that Chef Allysa Gregg deftly prepares in-house and sprinkles throughout her menu to add an element of salty goodness to every bite.
“I’ve always been very into meat production,” explains Gregg. “I’m fascinated by the idea of being the opposite of a vegan, where you use every possible piece of the animal.”
Another house favorite at Spints is the Dirty Pretzel—the perfect complement to a frothy stein of beer—which is battered, deep-fried and topped or stuffed with weekly rotating ingredients like sweet and sour pork, fried chicken with gravy and even the ungodly combination of pork belly, peanut butter and bananas (dubbed the Elvis Dirty Pretzel).
“We try to be really innovative with our ingredients,” says Gregg. “It’s a fun process.”
Spints Alehouse
401 NE 28th Avenue
Portland, OR 97232
503.847.2534
www.spintspdx.com
Streetwise Schnitzel
After spending 10 years with the Air Force in Germany, Marsha Pritchard came to know and love the local culinary scene—especially the “schnitzel ladies” who would line up their carts outside the base where her husband Dan was stationed. After several years back in the states, the pair decided to try and recreate the German street food experience right here in P-Town, and before long, the Schnitzel Van was born.
“We’ve developed certain flavors that we really like,” says Marsha. “A lot of this is similar to what you find on the streets of Germany, or even in some of the restaurants.”
As a general rule, food dispensed from a moving vehicle can often be a bit sketchy, but any doubts should instantly vanish after one bite of a crispy and delicious pork schnitzel sandwich topped with fresh pickles, tomatoes and lettuce and served with a heaping portion of fries. Equally impressive were the brat balls, an occasional daily special served over savory mashed potatoes and gravy and accompanied by a sweet and tangy cucumber salad and iced tea for just $6.
Hidden away at its current location down an industrial stretch of SE 26th, VanSchnitzels is out of sight and mind for most. But around here, if you cook it up right, they will come. And we have a feeling that the Schnitzel Van will be cruising the streets of Portland for a long time.
VanSchnitzels
4720 SE 26th Avenue
Portland, OR 97202
www.vanschnitzels.com
