Gluten-Free Cupcakes: Which Portland Bakery Takes the Cake?

Whether you’ve gone gluten-free because of a sensitivity to wheat or because you suffer from Celiac’s Disease (like me), giving up gluten can be tough, especially when it comes to saying no to sweets. And when it comes to sweets there is nothing more droolworthy and hard to resist than a cupcake. Fortunately, there are many Portland bakeries that offer gluten-free (and, often, vegan) cupcakes. Whether you're a fan of frosting, cake or both—you'll be sweet on at least one of these six options.


Sweet Thing Bakehouse & Coffee Bar

Sweet Things bakery on Northeast MLK features mini cakes rather than actual cupcakes. They are little two layer cakes with filling and frosting—not for the faint of heart or, really, the solo eater. I sampled a chocolate cake with cream cheese frosting and ganache filling. At first, I was overwhelmed by the amount of frosting, but that excess ended up being a good thing. The cake was very dry, and what I took for ganache filling seemed more to have been a square of dark chocolate that had been melted between the cakes. The chocolate had re-hardened, though, making for a rather unpleasant combination of textures (hard chocolate, dry cake). The frosting, however, was delicious. I think I would have been better off scraping off the frosting, heating up the cake (and hidden square of chocolate) and then putting the frosting back on. I think that would have helped. Or, Sweet Things might want to consider baking the cake a few less minutes, and making an actual chocolate filling instead of using plain hard chocolate ($4.75).


Black Sheep Bakery (vegan)

The woman at Blacksheep Vegan Bakery warned me that their carrot cupcake wasn’t pretty: “It kind of sticks to the paper and doesn’t look all that good. But it tastes awesome!” She was right—it wasn’t much to look at—but the big huge dollop of vegan cream cheese frosting made it all okay. It turned out to be a helpful bonding agent, too; the cake was super moist and loaded with shredded carrots and perfumed with cinnamon, but fell apart with every attempted bite. I finally made my way through it by eating it sort of tamale style—peeling down the paper as I took a bite. It was tasty, but a mess. I was glad that it was just a regular-sized cupcake and not a mondo one, half of which I’m sure would have ended up on the floor. Would I go back and eat it again? Yes, definitely. Just not on a date or a job interview ($1.50).


Sweetpea Baking Company (vegan)

Sweetpea Bakery on Southeast Stark Street had a pretty little plate of pretty little cupcakes with swirls of pink or white frosting atop of vanilla or chocolate cupcakes. I probably should have tried the vanilla cake with pink (strawberry) frosting to break up my chocolate fest, but I can’t say no to chocolate cupcakes, especially when they come with a name like “Sundae Cupcake.” The vanilla icing did look like whipped cream, and it was drizzled with chocolate sauce, sprinkled with peanuts, and topped with a cherry. Delightful. Again, the frosting ended up being my favorite part. The cake was a bit dry, not terribly so, and the overall flavor of the cupcake reminded me distinctly of a Devil Dog. Which is not a bad thing, really. And the fact that it was 100% vegan was hard to believe, with that creamy, yummy frosting ($2.75).


Back to Eden Bakery Boutique (vegan)

Back to Eden offered up a very beautiful chocolate cupcake with chocolate icing the day I was there, but they told me, they rotate flavors often. It had a good consistency, and stayed together well, but was a tad bit dry. It was tremendously chocolatey, though, and I imagined if I had gotten there earlier in the day, when it was fresh out of the oven, it would have been significantly moister. Still, it was pretty darn good, and the folks were so nice (what is it with the Vegans? They were all so warm and friendly!), I am sure to go in to sample the rest of the cupcake choices, and the vegan soft-serve, which I hear is amazing ($2.75).


Pastrygirl

Pastrygirl has just one gluten free cupcake—another carrot topped with cream cheese. I imagine the reason she only carries one is because she is a perfectionist, and she won’t introduce a cupcake until it meets her high standards. Well, I have high standards, too, and this cupcake met mine. If someone had said to me, “Oops! We gave you the regular carrot cupcake by mistake!” I would have not only panicked about the ill-effects I would soon endure, but I would totally believe them. It was that good. This cupcake had a modest amount of frosting, but that was because there was nothing to hide or to attempt to hold together. The cupcake was fine on its own, both in texture and flavor. It held together. It melted in my mouth. It was carrot cake heaven ($2.50).


New Cascadia Traditional (vegan option available)

New Cascadia Traditional, however, takes the cake (sorry, had to do it). And the bread. And the pizza. I have yet to find something in this dedicated gluten-free bakery that isn’t the best of its gluten-free kind. I picked up a cupcake at the Portland Farmers Market, and brought it home to share with my husband, a self-proclaimed hater of all gluten-free stuff. The super moist chocolate cake, with a pudding-like chocolate filling, and topped with chocolate butter cream not only came in first for me, but passed my husband’s test as well, which almost never happens ($3.50).

Note: New Cascadia also offers a vegan option of its gluten-free cupcakes.


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Eat & Drink
about the author...
Jennifer Coughlin

Jennifer Coughlin is a freelance writer and obsessive gardener. Hailing from New Jersey, she’s lived all around the Garden State, enjoyed a short stint on the Valley Isle (Maui), before taking root in the City of Roses in 2005. Here she’s found a place where she can enjoy all of her favorite things—a long growing season, a city more...

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    The vegan chocolate cupcake with vanilla frosting at New Cascadia Traditional is my fave. If you love cupcakes—gluten-free, vegan or conventional—you've got to give these guys a try. Delicious!

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    Great post. Slowly but surely, I'm succumbing to the likelihood that I'm mildly allergic to gluten and really should try and stray away from the stuff. But how on earth can you do that when you adore food in this town?! Your surrounded at every turn with such delicious gluten-full options! The only other gluten-free cupcake I'd add are those from Petunias. They're divine and are only a farmer's market find for now > www.petuniaspiesandpastries.com

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    • Jen Coughlin
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      Catherine, it seems like you're far from alone into being sensitive to gluten! It is good to know that there are options out there, and more and more chefs who take gluten sensitivity into consideration when planning menus.

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    One of my faves is the carrot cake at Piece of Cake in Sellwood, among several other GF and vegan cakes there. MMM!

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    I think that one of the things that you're not stressing is the importance of production and contamination in these bakeries. I loved New Cascadia when they were in North West, but haven't visited their latest digs.

    I find what keeps me from going to the hybrid bakeries (like Sweet Thing Bakehouse & Coffee Bar where they do gluten and gluten-free) is their insensitivity to what "gluten free" really is.

    Having Celiacs Disease, I'm sure that you can relate: it's not the amount of wheat you have, it's any presence of wheat whatsoever.

    It makes me cringe when I go to bakeries that have "gluten free" items sitting on the bottom shelf and wheaty cakes & cookies sitting on the upper shelfs so that crumbs fall down. Or when I see places use the same utensils to cut and serve the cakes. Or even when they dip things into the same friers as breaded items.

    I really appreciate your post, and I'm glad that more and more places have gluten-free options, (though I have become an excellent baker in the past few years!), but I still will holding out for entirely gluten-free kitchens/ovens.

    Though, you saying that Sweet Thing Bakehouse & Coffee Bar was safe might make me reconsider going back.

    I just wish that more bakeries were sensitive to how bad a celiac's reaction can be to the smallest amount of gluten. Maybe I should make a pamphlet.

    Ha!

    Either way, thanks for posting.

    Reply
    • Jen Coughlin
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      Thanks for your comment Domanique. You are right - there is room for improvement when it comes to food establishments understanding what it means to have Celiac Disease. There are many people who avoid gluten for a variety of reasons, but for us, cross contamination is everywhere, and cannot be fully avoided unless you eat at places that have designated gluten-free kitchens (the only bakeries that I am aware of in Portland are New Cascadia and Coffee Plant, which didn't make it into this article b/c of time and space constraints). I know of no restaurants that are designated gluten free. For Celiac sufferers, a crumb or a dusting of flour can trigger a response. It is not fun. Awareness would help control cross-contamination, but the only sure way to avoid it is to eat only in places where there isn't any chance of contamination. It's something anyone with Celiac's Disease probably should do, but even I don't adhere to such strictness, and pay the consequences on occasion!

  5. Gravatar

    You forgot the best cupcakes of all--Crave Bakeshop!

    http://www.cravebakeshop.com/

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      Thanks for the tip, Julian. Not sure if Jen knows about Crave or not, but it's totally new to me. Looking forward to checking it out. The photos on the blog made me drool.

  6. Jen Coughlin
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    I stuck to gluten free cupcakes found in bakeries for this story - I hope Crave gets a retail store soon!

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    "I know of no restaurants that are designated gluten free." -- Have you tried Hawthorne Fish House or Corbett Fish House? While not quite strictly gluten-free, they come pretty close. And they're wonderful!

    It isn't quite fair, by the way, to pit Cascadia's non-vegan cupcake against vegan ones. While Cascadia's vegan cupcakes are good, they're not as phenomenal as the non-vegan ones. I bet if you compared vegan-to-vegan you'd have a more level playing field.

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      mmmmm.... Hawthorne Fish House. God I love them.

      I used to also hit up Virgo & Pisces on NW 21st & Glisan before they shut down. Half of their kitchen was Gluten Free, (including pizza ovens), which was FANTASTIC. I was so sad when they shut down.

      I'm finding that a lot of restaurants are starting to have a "gluten-free" side, so that they don't even risk contamination. PF Changs is a great example of a chain with this practice.

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      Thanks for mentioning Corbett; they are almost totally GF (though they have wheat based buns and bread, I don't think anything they cook or bake on the premises contains gluten, which is a big step towards eliminating cross-contamination). Though they don't qualify for this story on cupcakes, they DO feature several GF desserts, which is great!

      Maybe vegan vs. dairy isn't a fair fight, but this was about taste, and I had to be honest. Although that Back to Eden vegan cupcake was no slouch, and stood up to the big dairy guys quite nicely!

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    Yes, Domanique, V&P was a loss to us! That is exciting news about restaurants having a GF side. Hopefully we can do a story on that sometime!

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    You are spot on about Sweet Thing. I went once and the cake was inedible. They sell brownies at Whole Foods on Fremont too and also it was so gross.

    Now New Cascadia, on the other hand, is like paradise. My favorite is the pizza crusts - so good to make pizza on the grill!

    Reply
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