The downturned economy has Portlanders tightening their belts, and cutting out many luxuries. Local businesses large and small have had to make adjustments, and restaurants are no exception.
Portland is a city of food lovers, and our chefs and restaurateurs have worked hard during these lean times to bring us the quality food we expect at prices we can swallow. Many notable chefs have embraced the downscale dining trend by opening new restaurants that offer upscale food at affordable prices, and by offering neighborhood-centric companion restaurants to their higher end establishments.
The result? Good eats that taste anything but cheap.
Good Food Made Simple at Lower Price Points
“The reality is that every restaurant has pricing that reflects the current state of the economy,” says Kurt Huffman, owner of Chefstable, a restaurant development company. “Five years ago, the average entrée would be $5 higher than it is today. Now entrees above $25 are prohibitive.” He says that besides the trend of lower priced entrees overall, many chefs are opting to open restaurants whose concepts are based around good food made simple at lower price points.
The Foster Burger from beginning to end.
Foster Burger is such a place. Huffman partnered with Daniel Mondok, chef/owner of Sel Gris, and Pok Pok and Ping chef/owner Andy Ricker to create a “nice, neighborhood burger joint.” The menu is small and simple by design. They grind the meat that is sourced as locally as possible; they serve hand-cut fries, fresh-baked buns and homemade pickles. They offer a soup and two salads. They have one dessert.
“We are aiming for value, good service, good food and consistency,” explains Mondok. “We’re not about changing things up all of the time, or getting fancy. We’re keeping it real.”
Tasty n Sons in Boise.
Huffman says that the downscale dining trend is another reaction to the state of the economy. He says Foster Burger answers the call by serving basically one inexpensive item. He says that places like Tasty n Sons, recently opened by Toro Bravo chef and owner John Gorham, are taking a different route to achieve the same end. With a lot of smaller portions, Gorham is able to offer a smaller price tag without sacrificing variety of flavors.
But, according to Gorham, that has been his concept all along—to have restaurants that are financially accessible to the communities in which they reside. Tasty n Sons wasn’t necessarily opened in response to the current state of the economy, but in response to the needs of the neighborhood—a good breakfast place with reasonable prices.
"It was never my intention to have a super fancy restaurant," claims Gorham. "Toro Bravo isn't super high end. I wanted to open a restaurant where people in the neighborhood could afford to come."
Since coming to Portland a number of years ago, Gorham has always lived in the northeast quadrant, and says he is loyal to the area, and wants to give the area what it wants. He found that what it seemed to need now was a good breakfast place. Opened for about a month, Tasty n Sons already has a loyal neighborhood following.
"I've seen some people in here twelve or thirteen times already," he says, which makes him pretty happy. What's more, he's answered some of his own needs; he can reach both restaurants on his bike or on foot. I ask him if two busy restaurants are enough, or if he has any other projects planned.
"It's like getting a tattoo," he jokes. "You have to forget the pain before you can get another one." He says he's kidding about the pain, but he is certainly a bit busier this spring than last.
Toro Bravo in Eliot.
Companion Restaurants: Affordable Indulgences
Cafe Castagna predates the economic downturn by a few years. Monique Siu, owner of both the cafe and the more upscale Castagna, says that the cafe opened in response to the neighborhood’s wish for a casual place.
“It is less expensive, but also more of a place where families can go once a week, or a couple of times a month,” Siu explains. “People really appreciated it—they want a place where they can get good food but also a burger or a kid’s pasta.”
Cafe Castagna and Castagna in Hosford-Abernethy.
She says that this concept of serving simple good food is also working out well during these tougher times. The neighborhood feel of Cafe Castagna is further enhanced by its lower price point.
“We see lots of families, lots of neighborhood regulars,” Sia says.
Genoa was a Southeast Portland fine dining staple that closed in 2008 after 38 successful years, reopened with a new focus, and a new companion restaurant next door. Genoa continues to be a place many choose for special occasions, but Accanto has a very different purpose.
“Accanto is very neighborhood-centric,” explains general manager Lisa Belt. “We’ve made it accessible in every way, not just price point.” She says that while the interior of Genoa is largely not visible from the street (part of it’s mystique, she says), Accanto, which sits on the corner of 28th and Belmont, has lots of windows and will have outdoor seating that she believes will make it an active part of the Sunnyside neighborhood.
Accanto and Genoa in Sunnyside.
She says that there is a lot of crossover between the restaurants as well. Folks who see Genoa as their special occasion place are thrilled to have Accanto as a lower cost alternative to enjoy on a more regular basis.
Matthew Busetto, chef/owner of Firehouse Restaurant is also looking for ways to feed more of the community.
“We have always strived to keep our price point reasonable, while serving local and sustainably produced food wherever possible,” he says. “We’ve got a lot of regulars, but we wanted them to spend more time with us. Like, come and see us at least every day, maybe a couple of times a day.” That is why he and business partners Gretchen Glatte, pastry chef, and Justin Rideout, carpenter, decided to collaborate on Woodlawn Coffee and Pastry, slated to open in early summer.
Firehouse Restaurant and Woodlawn Coffee and Pastry in Woodlawn.
“A cup of coffee and a slice of scratch-made pie hopefully won’t break the bank,” says Glatte, whose baked goods will be the main feature at the shop. “We want people to feel at home, feel taken care of. We want to serve them something really fresh and good. Indulgent in every way except in price.”
