Are Eggs the New Bacon? Portland Says Yes!

Eggs, like bacon, have long been a breakfast staple of neighborhood greasy spoons. But these days, eggs are popping up on menus all over town—most commonly draped over a burger or tucked into a sandwich. Not just any eggs, mind you—eggs from local farms, because farm eggs offer more robust flavor and firm texture than their conventional cousins.

This back to basics trend is a hit with Portland's finest restaurants, too. Local chefs are taking eggs beyond their traditional breakfast boundaries and serving them up as main dishes, appetizers and, yes, even as bar snacks. We found five egg-cellent options. Take a crack at 'em and let us know what you think!

Grilled Asparagus and Farm Egg at Cafe Nell

Photo courtesy of Cafe Nell

Andrew Garrett from Café Nell reveals what makes an egg so special.

“It is not only a great stabilizer,” he explains, "It also adds an extra component of flavor." His grilled asparagus appetizer, served with brown butter and a sunny-side up egg, is a dinner menu favorite.

“There’s nothing new about it,” he asserts. “The French have been doing it for years. People have been pleasantly surprised by what an egg can do to the flavor of a dish.”
 

Tabla Ravioli Topped with Farm Egg

Adam Berger, co-founder of Tabla Bistro, picked up his famous ravioli dish while working in the Chianti region of Italy. When he opened Tabla 7 years ago, the ravioli went right on the menu, and has remained there ever since.

The farm-fresh egg is cracked on top of a ricotta-filled ravioli topped with poppy seeds, grana padano cheese, and a little clarified butter; the egg becomes the sauce.

“The yolk spills out and intermingles with the poppy and grana,” Michael Garofola, general manager and sommelier, explains. “It’s the most perfect food.”
 

Beet-Pickled Hard Boiled Eggs at Grüner

I confessed to the bartender at Grüner that although I was interested in tasting their egg bar snack, I was concerned that people would look at me funny, drinking a rose' and eating an egg, but he assured me that it would not only be a taste sensation, but was also very pretty, and would look good with my pink wine.

Beet juice brined and deviled, the egg was hot pink on the outside, the white of the egg  firm, and the yolk filling was generously mixed with horseradish—a perfect companion to the rose' both in color and flavor. I could have eaten a dozen. The bartender was not at all surprised.

Scotch Eggs at Fats

Fats' Scotch Egg dish is unique. Micah Camden, chef and owner of Fats, cooks the egg a mere seven minutes, allowing the yolk to play a much more major role in the flavor of the dish than the traditionally cooked through egg. Softly boiled, then encased in rich pork sausage, the entire thing is then dipped in a light breading and fried. It is a richly meaty and salty treat that is as fitting for dinner or a late night snack as it is for breakfast.
 

Farm-Egg Topped Pizza at Lovely's Fifty-Fifty

Lovely's Fifty-Fifty's egg-topped pizza is both an homage to a traditionally Italian way of serving pizza as well as a nod towards Portland's love of keeping chickens for fresh eggs. The toppings change with what is seasonably available. On my visit, the pizza boasted dollups of soft goat cheese, bits of crispy bacon, and a sunny-side up egg right in the middle. As with Tabla's ravioli, the runny, farm-fresh egg serves as a sauce for the pie, highlighting the saltiness of the bacon and the cheese, and adding a richness to the crust.