Many of us drive right through the Northeast's Hollywood District via Sandy Boulevard en route to other climes. Hollywood is flanked by Grant Park, Rose City Park and I-84—but it’s more than a speedy diagonal route headed downtown or the Lloyd District. Next time your travels take you through Hollywood, stop and smell the roses. Better yet, make Hollywood a destination spot and spend some time exploring this oft-overlooked neighborhood.

Hollywood History

The Hollywood District was originally named Hollyrood (from the Scottish) and was part of the Rose City Park subdivision. It was renamed for the historic Hollywood Theatre which opened its doors in 1926 quickly becoming the central feature of the neighborhood. Since it’s been the focus of attention for more than three-quarters of a century, it’s only fair that we start our tour of the neighborhood here.

The Hollywood Theatre

The Hollywood Theatre has certainly seen many changes and challenges. Nearby Grant Park neighbor Dori Jones remembers seeing Dr. Zhivago there before it was divided up into smaller theatres (the theatre was originally designed to seat 1500 in one large space). In 1997, Film Action Oregon (FAO) stepped up to the plate to purchase the theatre in order to preserve its rich cultural history and continue to provide neighbors with entertainment galore including independent films, performances, openings, fundraising events and parties. Related programs include Project Youth Doc, a documentary making summer camp for teens, and INSPIRE, a film production program for young women (part of FAO’s Women’s Film Initiative). Both programs reach out to local underserved populations, and have strong community partners who help subsidize tuition. FAO also sponsors the Austin Miller Scholarship Fund that helps kids find their creative voice though filmmaking. Be sure to catch a recent Oscar pick at the theatre in the coming weeks, attend the Oscar Shorts showcase, or even spend THE BIG NIGHT at the theatre partying along with (in spirit) the red carpet celebs glamming it up on the big screen.

Hollywood is home, however, to some real celebrities—the Junior Rose Parade got its start in this historic neighborhood. The Rose Festival has always celebrated and included kids’ events, with the children’s parade becoming a standard feature in 1936. The parade route travels directly down Sandy Boulevard in the heart of Hollywood each and every June. (Not to be missed!) The Hollywood Boosters is a sponsor of this event and many more throughout the year, including a Casino Night, neighborhood clean-up, Third Thursday in the summer months and more. Many Hollywood businesses are members of the Boosters, which serves as a business association.

Some of the lovely homes in the Hollywood neighborhood. Photo: Amaren Colosi

Another stable feature of this Northeast Portland community has always been the Northeast Community Center (NECC), which opened in 1925 as a YMCA serving transitional and low-income men and boys at 1630 NE 38th Avenue. The facility was to be closed in 2004, yet so much local support was gained that the center was able to reinvent itself as the not-for-profit NECC with its continued mission to serve the underserved, and appeal to health and fitness goals of community members.

Fred Meyer has history in this neighborhood, too. Jones tells me that in 1970, the Hollywood Fred Meyer:

was housed in what is now the Rite Aid building, and there was a huge hullabaloo when the company decided to build a new store at NE Broadway and 29th. Fred Meyer said it'd keep the one in Hollywood, but only a couple of years passed before it disappeared. A lot of senior citizens went to the original store, and also to the famous drive-in restaurant that left in the 70s, too. Can't think of the name of the restaurant, but it had great strawberry shortcake in the summer. (Can anyone recall the name of this hotspot? My sleuthing efforts proved fruitless. No pun intended.)

Aquatic Maintenance and The Wet Spot aquarium stores. Photo: Amaren Colosi

Hollywood Businesses: Quirks and Perks

Hollywood has seen plenty of businesses—mom ‘n pop shops, a variety of five and dimes, antiques stores, small designer boutiques, sushi and juice bars, chain stores, even two aquarium shops (The Wet Spot, Aquarium Maintenance)—come and go. Josh Rickabaugh Rich, who lives and works right up the hill in nearby Rose City Park, enjoys that “wacky 42nd Street Station with the little post office inside.” There’s also Aunt Tillie's Deli and Pub, the Himalayan Gifts and Candies store, Antique Alley, if you’re into exploring the mini mall for gifts and such, and Hollywood Antiques just across the street  if you’re on the hunt.

Since 1955, Gordon’s Fireplace Shop on NE 33rd at Broadway has brought the neighborhood fireplace accessories, lights and fine furnishings (and, sparkly window bling to look at when stopped at that busy intersection). If mid-century modern is more your style, try Dania on NE 41st and Tillamook or Shag (great LPs there, too!) on Sandy Boulevard.

Site of the old Value Village, now the Grocery Outlet

In Hollywood, everyone’s got their fave haunt. Mine was the gem that was ValueVillage that my pal Steve turned me on to when I arrived on the Stumptown scene. It was a goldmine of household items, records, art, and certainly clothes. (ValueVillage also inspired the great denim caper of 2007—two head-to-toe outfits including shoes and bags for $22. You can’t argue with that. Now, if you want to get your fix, you’ve got to travel out SE 82nd.)

When I set out to discover more about Hollywood, I heard many complain that the neighborhood doesn’t offer a good business zone for walking (“It’s not pedestrian friendly.”) or window shopping (“There’s too much cross traffic.”) or running errands (“It’s not a cohesively planned neighborhood.”), but Rickabaugh Rich (and plenty of others!) disagrees: “One thing I love is that everything is right there, and you don't need a car to get to it all. From a sustainability perspective, it's amazing. It's perfect for older people, and I often think that wherever I end up, I'll move back to Hollywood when my kids no longer trust me with the car.”

The Hollywood Neighborhood Association does note on its web site that “Hollywood is lacking in public gathering space and is one of the few Portland neighborhoods that does not have a park of its own.” The Hollywood Urban Park and Gateway Project “would add gateways over Sandy on both ends of the neighborhood. Exact design of the gateways—as well their location—is still being discussed.”

MAX at the Hollywood Transit Center Station

In the meantime, there are plenty of sidewalks in Hollywood to get you safely to your destination. And, the Hollywood/Northeast 42nd Avenue Transit Center Station (served by the blue, green and red lines) offers a pedestrian footbridge to Laurelhurst. Jones loves the historic buildings and houses, as well as “the old trees in the area, just as I love them in all Portland's inner city neighborhoods. I walk around the Hollywood neighborhood, even at night, and feel very safe.”

Hollywood is indeed a senior-friendly zone. With the Hollywood Senior Center (at 1820 NE 40th Avenue), which boasts terrific programming and a consignment shop that features handcrafted items made by seniors, and the muchly beloved Hollywood Library at NE 40th and Tillamook Street with its homage to children’s author Beverly Cleary and her Klickitat Street crew, there are plenty of opportunities for entertainment.

The Moon and Sixpence pub. Photo: Amaren Colosi

If you roll a bit harder, though, there’s always the Moon and Sixpence on NE 42nd and Tillamook—a real British pub with great fare, a cozy scene, and plenty of darts, football viewing, and special events (like the benefit night on February 6th where a percentage of the till’s proceeds went to the Mercy Corps Haiti relief fund). Other popular locations for those seeking a big night out Hollywood style include the Ambassador Restaurant and Lounge (For most excellent karaoke. My team used to drag me there years before I moved to town) and Tony Starlight’s Supper Club and Lounge (known by my posse as Stony Tarlights—we most enjoy the 70s AM Gold inspired shows). Tom Field, manager at Stony, er, Tony Starlights, says “Tony's is like stepping back to a time where life was easier and going out was about relaxing and enjoying oneself.” And, it is. It’s a rocking good time there nearly every night (open Tuesday through Saturday). The Chameleon Restaurant and Bar and The Rhinelander are also fun and funky choices for dinner, drinks and special celebrations throughout the year, so check their events calendars for something special.

The Midnight Serenaders with Tony Starlight, photo courtesy of Tony Starlight

Additional Hollywood Raves

Late last fall, nearly everyone in the neighborhood seemed to be looking forward to the Whole Foods opening in January. The main strip along that section of Sandy Boulevard is peppered with for lease signs, and many hope that Whole Foods and the condos coming to the area will give it a bit of a boost. One neighbor quipped, not uniquely, that “times are tough.” Times are tough, indeed, but when I visited the shiny new store during its second week of operation, it was jam-packed with food and people and lots and lots of people buying lots and lots of food. The hustle and bustle in the new space confirmed my suspicions: Whole Foods does it again. I did speak with two Whole Foods Team Leaders—one at the NE 15th and Fremont location, and the other at the Burnside store (both formerly Wild Oats outlets). They each reported steady loss of business primarily from the fresh deli and prepared foods departments. The array of soups and salads and sushi at the Hollywood Whole Foods is quite a marvel, so it makes sense that people would flock there if given the choice. (But a business poaching from its own is a bit like the Starbucks model, ya gotta admit. We’ll see how it pans out.)

The new Whole Foods store

Pal’s Shanty at 4630 NE Sandy Blvd is a favorite family-owned fish shack/bar that may have been one of the first businesses in this neighborhood (perhaps a flower stand 100+ years ago!). Try the chowder or oyster shooters during happy hour. Hollywood Burger Bar boasts the best burgers and milkshakes in town. This spot has been a favorite hangout for 30 years and still holds the décor of a hometown diner.

When I’m en route from picking up new tubes from the Bike Gallery on NE 53rd to Trader Joe’s down on NE Halsey, I always like to make a short stop for a coffee at Aliviar on NE 42nd Street. At both venues, the staff are friendly, knowledgable and helpful. (And, you get what you need. Rubber. Caffeine.)

The Bike Gallery's flagship store. Photo: Amaren Colosi

By far, my favorite Farmers Market in Portland (so many from which to choose!) is at the Hollywood location in the parking lot of the old ValueVillage (now the Grocery Outlet) The 2010 season begins Saturday, May 1, and I can’t wait to get fresh flowers, tamales, a great cuppa, and a delcious treat (from Fleur de Lis bakery, also conveniently located on NE Hancock Street). This market scene is always mellow, with friendly vendors, fun neighbors, and a great selection of produce. Make a point of breaking out of your habit this spring and cruise this delightful mecca.

Rickabaugh Rich and his graphic design firm partner Qiana “also spend “90% of our time outside the office” at the New Deal Café. “It’s probably not technically Hollywood,” he notes, but the design duo simply love it for Stumptown coffee and treats from the Florio Bakery just the same. Field, from Tony Starlight’s, chooses Wild Tiger, a Thai/Laotian restaurant at 4160 NE Sandy Boulevard. “The food is amazing, and it has the nicest bartender.”

There really is a lot in store for neighbors in Hollywood—from diverse business offerings to the library and community center to the farmers market (and, yes, Trader Joe’s and Whole Foods). Come check out Third Thursdays in June, July and August, for sure. The Hollywood Theatre on a Saturday night. Or, the Burger Bar for lunch on a weekday followed by a stop at Shag for household collectibles and then on to the library for this week’s selections. The options in Hollywood are endless.

Check out some great old timey photos of the Hollywood neighborhood.

View the slideshow for more images of Columbia Grain, or visit our Flickr gallery:

Photos © 2010 Kenneth Aaron, Neighborhood Notes and Amaren Colosi