Mississippi Avenue: Moving Forward and Taking Action

Mississippi Avenue, the little street that could. Nearly every article about the Boise neighborhood's main drag over the last decade begins by recalling its shady past—and rightfully so (which is why I'm keeping up the tradition). The challenges the area has faced—losing homes and community connections to I-5 in the early '60s, a downward spiral into crime as longtime businesses closed, navigating racial tensions in the most diverse neighborhood in the state—make Mississippi's 21st Century renaissance all the more eye-catching. Of course, the relatively rapid makeover has fueled a longstanding debate around gentrification, a topic that could fill a book (though these articles in the Willamette Week (2007) and The Portland Tribune (2009) cover it well). But here, and now, I think we can agree that new business is good news, and a handful of new additions will have the street buzzing into the next decade.

Mississippi Avenue Lofts

Just four months ago, there was still some anxiety about filling—or even finishing—all the new square footage created by the several large developments that rose before the boom times went bust last year. Construction on the Mississippi Avenue Lofts had been stalled since February, when builder Gray Purcell went bankrupt; it wasn't until June that R&H Construction took over, and though Pastaworks has been open since March, leasing agent Kathy MacNaughton says they won't finalize tenants for the other two retail spaces (or sell the living spaces) until the project is completed in early 2010.

It was only in July when Sara King, who handles the Interstate Urban Renewal Area, told the Portland Sentinal, "It's sad that there's all this space being created that's not being absorbed. It's an unfortunate situation for the developers and for the residents when there are vacant storefronts." But thanks to creative business ideas and some leasing incentives, fall has brought the first tenants to the three other new developments.

The largest, Tupelo Alley, has been controversial with neighbors, but when Mississippi Treehouse opens in time for Halloween, the building's courtyard will become the epicenter of family fun on the street. Nanny, mom, and Boise resident Lisa Stanger was attracted to the neighborhood almost five years ago for its local businesses and tightknit, walkable scale, but felt something was missing: "I love my neighborhood and try to stay in it to shop as much as possible, but there wasn't a children-parent resource within walking distance," she explained. The 1,200 square-foot Mississippi Treehouse will host regular storytimes, playgroups, and parent meetups—and of course, a treehouse-themed play area to occupy the kiddies while the folks shop the mix of new, locally-made, and resale clothes, toys, books, bedding, and gifts. Stanger chose the Tupelo Alley for its eco-friendly building features and that courtyard, which virtually doubles their space, and hopes to host outdoor art classes and other activities while also being a rainy day destination with a cozy reading nook and coffee for parents. Considering the build-out has yet to begin, it will be ambitious to open in time for trick-or-treating, but Stanger is encouraged by the warm welcome she received at the Mississippi Street Fair. "I'm amazed at what a positive response we got, everybody is really excited for us," she said. According to Teresa Garber, the assistant property manager, several other local businesses are in negotiations and they hope to have signed leases by the end of the fall, while nearly half of the 188 residential units are rented.

Meanwhile, at the center of the strip, Brian Dreisse transformed his former home furnishings warehouse into Chateau Mississippi, a collection of five two-story commercial spaces surrounding a charming plaza, which closes a gap in storefronts that had divided the street for years. The spirit of reuse—much of the new building was built on the bones of the old structure—has extended to its first resident, Mee Sen Thai Eatery. "I've spent a lot of time at the ReBuilding Center, and I really like their style," said co-owner (with his sister and her husband) Akkapong "Earl" Ninsom, who used to work at Monsoon Thai at the northern end of the street. "I've been looking for a building like this for two years." With a background at furniture firms in Thailand, Ninsom and his partners have been able to turn salvaged wood, bricks, and bicycle wheels into custom (and stunning—check out of the photos on their blog) furniture. And the food will be just as original, highlighting the noodle-based soup dishes that are a mainstay in Thailand, but according to Ninsom, are neglected in Portland. This "new kind of food" will debut in November.

Bryan McLean may be the luckiest developer of the bunch. He had a built-in tenant when he began the Numiss building next to Lovely Hula Hands: owners Sarah and Jane Minnick's spin-off Lovely's Fifty-Fifty. "Well, we grew up with Bryan, and after we moved the restaurant up here [into a building McLean bought and sold to them], we thought about doing a project in the new building," explained Sarah. Numiss is McLean's first multi-unit development, and he's worked hard to do everything right. The plot formerly housed derelict greenhouses that had turned the land into a brownfield; after investing in DDT and pesticide cleanup, he's focused on sustainable building features like solar panels, natural light and energy flow, reused materials, onsite stormwater filtration, and even electric vehicle charging stations. The three ground floor retail spaces and smaller upstairs offices will be completed in about three weeks, and Sarah couldn't be more eager. "It's all been a bummer to see a lot of projects get put on hold, but it's a good sign to see them picking up again," she said, noting that she hopes for a December opening. Lovely Fifty-Fifty will offer wood-fired pizzas, fresh salads, and homemade ice cream in a lively family-friendly atmosphere. "I think it will be a good complement to Lovely Hula Hands, offering all the same seasonal values and local farm ingredients, but in a more casual space—bring the kids!" she added.

The site getting the most attention lately, thanks to the local food cart craze that has even Gourmet magazine talking, is the Mississippi Marketplace that opened September 9 at Skidmore. Consider the nine-cart pod to be the upside to the downturn; developer Roger Goldingay (who rehabbed the Monsoon Thai building and restored and resided in the John Palmer House) had to get creative when economic realities cramped his plans for a larger project on this, his third corner at the intersection. "What can you do with a vacant lot? I looked at the noise problems happening at 12th and Hawthorne, and downtown seemed too dirty and messy, and I thought, ‘This could be improved on,'" he explained. Indeed, Mississippi Marketplace has been designed with food carts in mind, with pervious (i.e. runoff-preventing, water-absorbing) asphalt, individual electric meters, a collective recycling program, extensive covered seating, and—gasp!—the luxury of a porta-potty. Goldingay also plans to add a stage for music and various craft and/or farmers market booths to create a truly dynamic nexus of food and entertainment. At the same time, "it's nobody's intent to create a nuisance," adds Goldingay. "We're certainly not opposed to a good party, but we're in a neighborhood and we're sensitive to those concerns."

But what about that food? There are some of the best and most innovative carts in the city all in one place, carefully curated for optimum culinary exploration. The first to roll in were Dogfeathers, a "working class" coffee cart serving organic Schondecken beans (a buck a cup) and fresh juice; Southwestern Pizza Company with 8-inch pies made on crispy and light tortillas (you gotta taste ‘em to believe it); and Ruby Dragon's creative vegan and veggie dishes (think roasted roots salad, Thai curries, and baked goods like quinoa pancakes). Patty's Wagon dishes up West African and Caribbean stews and curries along with flavored lemonades, Sushi Tree offers sustainable and organic veggie sushi, and The Big Egg handles breakfast with decadent sandwiches, French toast, and granola. The final three slots will be filled by Native Bowl, serving plant-based global bowls and sandwiches, and two favorites that are moving from across the river: former Shins drummer Jesse Sandoval's Nuevo Mexico, known for its sopapillas (look for new menu items at the new spot), and pastry chef Kir Jensen's beloved The Sugar Cube (Guinness cupcake, anyone?), which has been missed since February.

Prost!

This being Portland, all that eating will surely get folks thirsty for a good brew. Luckily, Mississippi Marketplace is anchored by Prost!, a German-style neighborhood pub that will open in mid-October. The building, a former church built in 1894 that had been boarded up in recent years, has been beautifully restored by Eterne, and the results are striking. Now owners Dan Hart and Chris Navarra are finishing up a large deck and rich interior woodwork to turn it into a warm and cozy beer hall. Navarra has opened four successful Prost! locations in Seattle, and they couldn't pass up this opportunity at the right spot, in the right neighborhood, at the right time.

"The whole vision that Roger had to put this together is amazing. It's such a great opportunity to be the centerpiece for the Marketplace. We want to be a part of it all," said Hart. To that end, everyone is welcome to bring their cart fare onto the patio or inside and enjoy one of the 11 German beers on draft (and yes, they will offer a menu of German food, including fresh baked pretzels). "We think the neighborhood is going to really love what's going on here," Hart noted. "People still need to get out of the house to relax. And people still need to have their beer."

In all the foodie frenzy, let's not forget about good ole retail. Fittingly, two new shops at the heart of the street are centered around local designers, artists, and DIY culture. Jennifer Thomas opened JET Dress near the end of August in the Mississippi Commons space formerly home to Blue. "We thought about the Pearl, downtown, Hawthorne, but I just sort of felt like Mississippi was really easy to be in, it had the right energy for our stuff," Thomas, who relocated from Hood River, explained.

The vegan boots, handcrafted leather sandals, knit hats, and local jewelry are all selected to complement the core JET pieces—architectural skirts, dresses, sweaters, and hoodies cut to flatter and move, made from sustainable fabrics like washable wool, organic cotton, bamboo, and raw silk. "We're really going for the shop that can dress women from head to toe," she added.

Meanwhile, BuyOlympia.com also moved their headquarters to the street from, well, Olympia, and LAND will be the first storefront and gallery for the ten-year-old e-tailer. Their focus on indie handmade goods, from cards and belts to mugs and wallets, zines and earrings—basically a hipster craft bazaar—jives well with the neighborhood. In fact, a number of Portlanders like Trish Grantham, Apak, and Tiny Meat are already on the roster. "The owners [Pat Castaldo and Aaron Tuller] were coming here all the time to meet with artists—and they also really liked the food selection in Portland—so it seemed like a natural move," explained manager Gail O'Hara. "We're really excited to be here and are already talking to local artists about making new products," she added. The October 9th opening will mark the first of many events at LAND, with the debut of new Nikki McClure papercuts and a visit from the insanely popular Koi Fusion Korean bbq truck. There will be monthly art shows, book launches, perhaps clothing swaps, record sales, and late-night holiday shopping. "Buy Olympia is already kind of like a meeting place for people in their community, and this spot is only going to make it better," O'Hara said. "We really love supporting the local economy—we eat at a local food cart everyday, we spend a lot of money at Fresh Pot!"

And truly, that's what it's all about: a neighborhood thrives when its residents can find everything they need right there. When it comes to the basics, though, Mississippi has been lacking; quick groceries can be had from the Nu-Rite Way Food Center, but a rundown exterior and a phone booth that attracted loitering have deterred some would-be shoppers. Now, thanks to a grant from the PDC's Storefront Improvement Program (which Goldingray also used for the Prost! building), owner Ho Hwang commissioned a spiffy seven-color paint job, a fresh sign, and brighter lighting—and kicked that phone booth to the curb. Things are changing inside as well, with a new deli offering hot and cold subs, paninis, veggie sandwiches, and salads made fresh daily.

Of course, an open-minded, accepting, and visionary attitude provides a whole other kind of sustenance for a community, and it's what has kept Mississippi evolving through so many challenging changes—and welcomes new additions like the LBGT community Q Center, which moved to the street in March from industrial Southeast. While still in the process of renovating the building, a former water treatment center, they've already benefited from the new location. "We always wanted to be a in a place where people could just drop in, and we're loving all the fun, interesting people here," said events & activities coordinator Glenn Goodfellow. Regardless of sexual orientation, "we welcome all fabulous people," he added, and explained that they plan to become even more neighborhood-focused, participating in events and providing more meeting space for community groups like the Historic Mississippi Business District. "The neighborhood is going through changes, good changes," Goodfellow noted, " and we're really excited to be part of such a dynamic community."

As an uncertain 2009 winds down, it's heartening to see a persevering spirit prevail on Mississippi Avenue—and if history is any indication, we'll have more developments to look forward to (She Bop, a modern and fun women-owned adult boutique is currently looking at spaces on the street and has received nothing but positive response from fellow business owners). As Roger Goldingray told me, "Mississippi Avenue is facing all the same problems the rest of the city and country are facing. Businesses are struggling, jobs are being lost, and people are worried about their future. [But] I learned over the last year...that you have to move forward and take action. Standing still is not an options when you are in a tough situation." The neighborhood seems to be collectively whispering, "I think I can, I think I can."

Mississippi Avenue Lofts
4216 N. Mississippi Ave.
Portland, OR 97217
503.222.5339
www.mississippiavenuelofts.com

Pastaworks
4212 N. Mississippi Ave.
Portland, OR 97217
503.445.1303
www.pastaworks.com
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 9:30 a.m.-7 p.m. & Sunday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m.

Tupelo Alley
3850 N. Mississippi Ave.
Portland, OR 97227
503.493.1700
www.tupeloalley.com

Mississippi Treehouse
3742 N. Mississippi Ave.
Portland, OR 97227
503.928.5987
www.misstreehouse.blogspot.com
Hours: TBD

Chateau Mississippi
3900 N. Mississippi Ave.
Portland, OR 97227
503.280.8070

Mee Sen Thai Eatery
3924 N. Mississippi Ave.
Portland, OR 97227
971.285.6927
www.meesenpdx.com
Hours: Monday-Friday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Saturday & Sunday, 12 p.m.-10 p.m.

Numiss
4039 N. Mississippi Ave.
Portland, OR 97227
503.497.5251
www.numisspdx.com

Lovely's Fifty-Fifty
4039 N. Mississippi Ave.
Portland, OR 97227
Hours: TBD

Mississippi Marketplace
N. Mississippi Ave. & Skidmore Street
Portland, OR 97210
www.missmarketplace.com
Hours: Vary by cart (check individual websites/Twitter)

Prost!
4237 N. Mississippi Ave.
Portland, OR 97210
www.prostportland.com
Hours: TBD

JET Dress
3753 N. Mississippi Ave.
Portland, OR 97227
503.282.3753
Hours:

LAND
3925 N. Mississippi Ave.
Portland, OR 97227
www.landpdx.com
Hours: Friday-Sunday, 11 a.m.-6 p.m.

Nu-Rite Way Food Center
3965 N Mississippi Ave
Portland, OR 97227
503.282.0247

Q Center
4115 N. Mississippi Ave.
Portland, OR 97217
503.234.7837
www.pdxqcenter.org
Hours: Monday-Friday, 9 a.m.-6 p.m. (and open for events)

View the slideshow for more images of Mississippi Avenue or visit our Flickr Gallery: