Accanto

When Portland's first and oldest fine dining establishment, Genoa, closed in 2008, it was the end of an era. The incredible Italian cooking that happened in that unassuming Belmont space (in Sunnyside) over 30 years was ahead of its time—seasonal, local, organic, artistic. But even the best need to evolve, and with a new chef (David Anderson, from Vindalho), a new investor, and one veteran manager, Genoa 2.0 debuted last month, with an entirely modernized dining room (and, finally, open windows!) that is a proper setting for the amazing food. What remains: the trademark antique sideboards and entry table with oversize floral display, and of course, the five-course prix fixe menu (updated to a 2010 budget-conscious $55/person). Not ready to make that kind of commitment? Now you can also grab a taste of Genoa at the next door Accanto cafe and bar. The clean and sophisticated "enoteca" is open for lunchtime paninis, after work cocktails, and casual dinners and pints. New and improved, indeed. Liz Hummer, 1/7/10